GREENTOURS - Panama & Darien Extention - Nov 22 to Dec 11, 07

GREENTOURS - PANAMA (and Darien Extension) - FALL 2007, TRIP REPORT

Like an approaching storm, the dawn Howler Monkey cacophony breaks over tree-tops laden with air plants and bromeliads. We watch as Keel-billed Toucans dextrously manipulate fruit with their improbably coloured and proportioned bills. Nearby, Golden-hooded Tanagers and Blue Cotingas glow in the first rays of the morning sun. Welcome to the remarkable Canopy Tower, quite simply one of the finest wildlife lodges in the world. The circular roof terrace provides a 360° panorama of 22,000-hectares of beautiful virgin rainforest. Panama is the quintessential tropical experience. Condensed into an isthmus just sixty miles wide are Atlantic, Pacific, South American and Montane biotopes resulting in spectacular diversity, each habitat just an hour or two from the other.

The blue-tipped wings of the Helicopter Damselfly pulsate with an extraordinary motion as it plucks spiders from their webs. Huge Morpho amathonte patrols paths, its wings a shocking blue in shafts of sunlight. Agoutis and Coatis forage on lawns whilst above our heads sit garish Trogons, Motmots and the stunning Great Jacamar. Capuchins, Spider Monkeys and gorgeous little white, black and rufous Geoffroy's Tamarins move through trees by lakes where we encounter American Crocodile and Capybaras. Both Two-toed and Three-toed Sloths are easy to spot in daylight. An extension takes us to Cana in the Darien Biosphere Reserve, a diverse area enriched by Andes and Amazonian biotopes. In the wild, untamed land that surrounds this rustic lodge we find four species of Macaw, Barred Puffbird, Black-tipped Cotinga, Gray-cheeked Nunlet and White-lipped Peccary. (Above two paragraphs have been modified from Greentours Panama itinerary)

Tony's Note: Both Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge are beautiful, exciting and surrounded by boundless natural treasures. Their local naturalist-guides are excellent. Any nature tour to Panama simply must include these two unique locations. As fabulous as these two places are, Cana Lodge in the Darien ranks as one of the most adventurous and inspiring places I've ever visited. Enhanced by its remoteness, the wildlife experiences here are phenomenal.

Day 1 - Thursday Nov 22
Everyone arrives at the airport safe and sound, and the group meets with our driver. We head into the night for a short half-hour drive through urban Panama, into Soberania Park, and to our first destination - the famous Canopy Tower, an old military radar facility creatively converted into the perfect lodge for observing neo-tropical canopy wildlife. As we drive up the long laneway toward the lodge, a Brazilian Rabbit runs across our path. Just before arriving at the gate, a mountain mist rolls in. Upon arriving, we're greeted by our Canopy Tower guide - Jose Soto. Hot and humid, we settle into our rooms for the night, eager for the excitement ahead. House Geckos, various insects and quarrelsome coatis serenaded us with odd nocturnal noises as we slowly fell into a slumber.

Day 2 - Friday Nov 23
Up before the dawn, the haunting calls of Great Tinamou and Collared Forest-Falcon refreshingly replaced our alarm clocks from back home. No time was wasted in a pre-dawn rush to experience the canopy from the lodge's rooftop. Unfortunately, the night's mountain mist hadn't dissipated. And, visibility was poor. Regardless, we could see some activity in the calm, with small birds flitting through the vegetation. A young male Summer Tanager landed next to us on the tower's railing. Many Palm Tanagers were joined by a flock of smaller Plain-coloured Tanagers. Howler Monkeys were calling in the distance. An Eastern-wood Pewee was flycatching from a nearby Cecropia Tree. And, the persistent call of an invisible Brown-capped Tyrannulet kept us searching. It was time for breakfast - a buffet of coffee, juices, tasty fruits and general breakfast goodies. Then it was time to check the bird-feeding station below. With White-nosed Coaties sniffing about, we watched several hummingbirds buzzing around the sugar water. White-necked Jacobins and Blue-chested hummingbirds dominated with occasional White-vented Plumeleteer and Long-billed Hermits paying brief visits. Joined by Jose, we hike down Semaphore Hill - the lodge's laneway. The thick jungle vegetation along the hillside was very active. A swarm of army ants seemed to attract a lot of wildlife. Red-capped and Blue-crowned Manakins, shy Western Slaty Antshrikes, Dot-winged Antwrens, a very close Great Tinamou, Broad-billed Motmot, White-whiskered Puffbird, Plain Xenops, and a mixed flock of wood-warblers all came into view. Blue Morphos would occasionally float down the lane. And, Red-tailed Squirrels were almost always nearby. A stunning Cinnamon Woodpecker came in for a fabulous look. On the forest floor, troops of Leaf-cutter Ants marched by pink cup mushrooms and the occasional helicopter damselfly. Above the lane, we saw a large triangular ant nest hanging off a bare tree branch. Nearby, a bright Blue Cotinga made an appearance. We return for lunch just as the fog lifts. Mantled Howler Monkeys were foraging in the trees outside our rooms. We could clearly see them from the tower. Lunch was delicious with an excellent salad. But the rains began, at times heavy. So, it was time to browse through the library of informative books. We met at 2:00pm just as the rain slowed down. We then drove a short distance to the Summit Gardens - a recreational area set-up more to educate about wildlife than plants. Outside the main facility were many Crimson-backed Tanagers, Rusty-margined Flycatchers and a male Slaty-tailed Trogon. Inside, we watched a video about the efforts of the Peregrine Fund to re-introduce Harpy Eagles (Panama's national bird) into the Panamanian lowlands. After the video, we returned to the gardens to see a few of the captive Harpies. A walk around the property produced a flurry of birds in the flowering trees. Among the many species were Collared Aracari, Gray-headed Chachalaca, Lineated Woodpecker, Common Tody Flycatcher, Masked Tityra, Buff-throated Saltator, Chestnut-headed Oropendola, Yellow-rumped Cacique, Red-legged Honeycreeper and a pair of Blue-crowned Motmots. Sheila was mesmerized by a fascinating Cannonball Tree. Nearby, a gorgeous, breeding-plumaged Capped Heron was feeding along the edges of the crocodile ponds. As we were leaving, parrots came flying in to roost, and a pair of Crane Hawks, each perched at the top of a different tree overlooking the grounds. We finished the day with a wonderful dinner and wine.

Day 3 - Saturday Nov 24
We were up to the canopy before dawn this morning, with coffee in hand and enthusiasm in full gear. But the forest was surprisingly quiet, and the mountain mist made visibility challenging. Regardless, the sun was making its way through the cloud, and a few birds came into view. The familiar young male Summer Tanager was fearless. And, the Eastern Wood Pewee was at its favourite perch. After breakfast, we gathered for a hike along the plantation trail down by the main highway. Terry spots a very cooperative Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth, almost at eye level, near the parking area. An accommodating Broad-billed Motmot posed for us at the trail entrance. Not far along the trail, we experienced another flurry of bird activity following an army ant swarm. This included the spectacular Ocellated Antbird. Other secretive swarmers included Spotted Antbird, Bi-coloured Antbird, Gray-headed Tanager, Barred Woodcreeper, Plain Brown Woodcreeper, White-whiskered Puffbird, Blue-crowned Motmot and Rufous Motmot. The frenzy entertained us for more than a half hour. Further along the trail we found a Chestnut-backed Antbird, Golden-crowned Spadebill, and a pair of Slaty-tailed Trogons. Back at the parking area, we studied the cryptic colours of a South American Common Toad as a small flock of Purple-throated Fruitcrows came in. We returned to the tower for a fabulous lunch. With clearing skies, we visited the tower's upper level. Our reward was a breath-taking view. Panama City in the distance with its columns of highrises, the "Bridge of the Americas", and huge cargo vessels on the canal - it was truly awesome. Better yet, we counted 4 soaring King Vultures spread out over a large area. Still far, but fairly clear through a scope, was a handsome Blue Cotinga. The afternoon passes by quickly. And, we gathered together for a trip to the canal. Over the water, Osprey and Magnificent Frigatebirds would soar, and Barn Swallows would swoop. We stopped along the Ammo Ponds where we saw a furtive White-throated Crake. Crimson-backed Tanagers, Yellow-tailed Orioles, Smooth-billed Anis, Southern Rough-winged Swallows, Social & Rusty-margined Flycatchers, juvenile Wattled Jacanas were all fairly visible and common. A few Tropical Mockingbirds made an appearance, and in the reeds, a few Black-bellied Whistling Ducks required effort to see. We walked along the dirt road, canal on one side and wetland on the other, with many birds coming into view, mainly grassquits and seedeaters. At a gated entrance to a restricted area, we found Barred Antshrike, Lesser Kiskadee, Yellow Warblers and Black-striped Sparrows. Perched in the distance was a Bat Falcon. And Sue spots a Rufescent Tiger-Heron. We could see several bats flying overhead as we returned to the lodge.

Day 4 - Sunday Nov 25
We start the day with a 6:00am breakfast. Although the dawn was clear, it was still fairly quiet. The regular tanagers, pewees and Tropical Kingbirds could be relied on. And, we had a great opportunity to study the various plumages of the common hummingbirds. Meanwhile, a Tangara Frog kept calling - sounding like a quetzal in a sewer. We drove off to the famous Pipeline Road, an old dirt track created by Americans during the Second World War as an alternate route for oil in case the canal was disrupted. It now offers easy access to deep tropical forest species not easily found elsewhere. And, we weren't disappointed. Almost immediately upon entering the trail we encountered a Semiplumbious Hawk perched in the open, over the trail. With the sun coming out, bird activity slowed down. But, the butterflies and damselflies came out in force with many landing on hotlips flowers. High overhead we could see and hear a Black Hawk-Eagle. Jose got a Chestnut-mandibled Toucan in the scope. At one of the creek crossings we had a flock of Chestnut-sided Warblers, a Black-striped Woodcreeper, Violacious Trogon and Lesser Greenlets. On our return, we find a very cooperative female Great Jacamar. It was time to go back to the tower for a fabulous lunch and a rest. Then we meet again in the lower lobby at 3:15. We didn't make it far from the lodge's gate when we had another army ant swarm. All the usual swarmers were there. Only this time, a pair of Song Wrens accompanied them. From here we headed out to the Summit Ponds near the canal. Several Gray-headed Chachalacas climbed the vegetation around the parking area. Also present were many Crimson-backed Tanagers and Variable Seedeaters. In the bamboo scrub, a Black-faced Antthrush called persistently. But, refused to show itself. At the ponds, a flock of Greater Anis would fly around the edges. Perched in the lower branches over the water were an immature Little Blue Heron, an Amazon Kingfisher, a Striated Heron and in the distance, a Capped Heron. Hidden in the thicket was a flock of Boat-billed Herons. Several warblers bounced around the edge of the pond, including Prothonotary Warbler and Northern Waterthrush. Red-lored Parrots were flying to a roost in the trees of a nearby Police Academy. Then it was back to the tower for dinner. Jose brings out a Birthday Cake for Terry. Terry makes a wish and blows out the candles (hmmmmmŠ what did he wish for?). Then it was out for a night drive. Immediately upon leaving the gate, our first sight - a Common Opossum crossing the lane. Shortly after, we spot a Brazilian Rabbit. In the tree above, we notice a Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth. While watching a Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth scratch itself, we could see several large beetles crawling through its hair - Ick! Down by the summit ponds, we observe a Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth with a baby. Our night-guide used a tape recording to lure a Common Potoo into flying over the van. And, as we returned along the highway, we found a Great Potoo perched on a branchless tree.

Day 5 - Monday Nov 26
We meet on top of the tower for dawn. The usual parade of familiar characters was present. With coffee in hand, we saw a male Fulvous-vented Euphonia. A Yellow-rumped Cacique worked the treetops. In the distance, we found Scaly-naped Pigeons. After breakfast, back on the tower, a beautiful Black-breasted Puffbird kept very still. Again, immediately after leaving the gate, we encountered the now familiar army ant swarm. Lots of activity beside the lane lured Tony into the jungle for photos only to get his pants covered in ants - Yikes! We continued down to the old Gamboa Road near the canal. The entrance was echoing with bird vocalizations. Jose persisted with his tape recorder and we finally got good looks at the secretive Black-faced Antthrush as it flicked its tail and walked around the understory of the secondary growth. The bird had a rail-like quality. In the branches above, we had a Squirrel Cuckoo beside a Red-tailed Squirrel - a nice comparison of two chestnut-red creatures. Crossing the trail were a pair of Geoffroy's Tamarins - like tiny bald men with tails. We continued on as the sun heated things up. With butterflies and the occasional Helicopter Damselfly flying about, we stepped gingerly along the soggy trail. A mating pair of large Red-headed Firetip Skippers allowed for some photo opportunities. We noticed intensity in Jose's manner when he told us to be very quiet. Then he pointed out a roosting pair of Spectacled Owls in the nearby bamboo. We continued along the trail, coming out at the summit ponds where Sue spots an American Crocodile. And, there they were, the same flock of resting Boat-billed Herons. Then it was back to the tower for lunch. Up on the tower, a band of Mantled Howler Monkeys pass close by. Sue spots a soaring Short-tailed Hawk with the abundant vultures. Then we were off to Gamboa village for a bit of late afternoon exploration. Central American Agouties were common and approachable. Jose puts out some fruit at a feeding station in the residential area. Dozens of tanagers immediately came in. Among the more interesting characters were Tropical Mockingbird, Blue Dacnis and Red-legged Honeycreeper. From there we went to visit Gamboa Resort on the Chagres River beside the canal. Here we saw many Common Moorhens, Wattled Jacanas and an uncommon male Lesser Scaup. From a perch on the boat dock, a Lesser Kiskadee was hawking for insects on the water surface. In the Water Hyacinth we spot a Purple Gallinule and American Coot. And, Sue spots another American Crocodile. Meanwhile, various egrets fly by, and an Osprey carrying fish, flew overhead. We went back to the tower for dinner where we enjoyed an outdoor Barbeque.

Day 6 - Tuesday Nov 27
Although rain interrupted our sleep occasionally, the dawn rose with the promise of sun. From the top of the tower, we struggled to identify a raptor perched in the distance. When it flew we could make out the marks of a Semiplumbeous Hawk. On the opposite side, a flock of Scaled Pigeons grouped together in a distant tree. A very cooperative Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth posed for cameras. It was in the open at eye level (provided you were standing on the tower's roof). After breakfast, we bid a fond farewell to staff, and drove off to our next destination - the Caribbean coast. But, a flurry of bird activity distracts us before we even leave Semaphore Lane. At the lower gate we find Yellow-tailed Oriole, Fasciated Antshrike and Chestnut-headed Oropendola (among others). Reluctantly, we tore ourselves away and continued our departure. With rain clouds looming, and road construction ahead, we looped back west for a longer, yet smoother ride to our destination. For the most part the drive was rainy and uneventful. However, the busy urban-like roadside demanded our attention with its huge commercial billboards, smiling uniformed school children, hurried folk, creatively painted buses, and noisy smog-billowing vehicles. As we crossed a lengthy bridge, some of us noticed a Cocoi Heron flying parallel to the shoreline. On occasion, our drive was accompanied by heavy rain. But, just as we approached Sierra Llorona Lodge, the sun came out. Our hostess Maria greets us. As we unload the taxi, we notice the parking area full of police vehicles. Fortunately, the authorities were only there for a lunch meeting. We settle into our cabins, and then into the dining area for lunch. In the afternoon, the ground's keeper takes us on a hike down a muddy trail. The steep slope was made trickier by persistent rain. However, we moved slowly, occasionally stopping for sounds in the understory. Although the trail was relatively quiet, we did have excellent looks at Rufous Motmot, and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. Back at the lodge, we had sleek Long-billed Hermits and several Violet-crowned Woodnymphs at the sugar-water feeders. By dinnertime, it was clear we had the entire lodge to ourselves. At dinner, Sue celebrated her Birthday with some lovely wine.

Day 7 - Wednesday Nov 28
We start very early with just coffee. Still dark outside, Jose, our local guide, greets us in the lobby. We pile into his truck and head down to Colon - a bustling city centering on canal activity. We bypass much of the urban concentration and veer toward the Gatun Locks. Our first stop is by a shopping centre where a tiny wetland reveals some interesting birds. Here we come close to Ringed Kingfisher, Wattled Jacanas, Great Egret, Tri-coloured Heron, Saffron Finches and a Common Black Hawk. Under blue skies, we pass by the impressive Gatun Locks with huge cargo ships and cruise liners queuing up. Above us several Brown Pelicans and Magnificent Frigatebirds circled, with a few perched on light standards. In the grassy fields adjacent to the canal, we found Savannah Hawk and Red-breasted Blackbirds. We continued up the Achiote Road - one of the best birding locations on the Caribbean side of the country. And, it didn't take long before experiencing a wondrous richness of wildlife activity. We made a short stop for breakfast then went for a hike along the curb of the paved roadway. We made several stops for things like Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth, White-tailed Trogon, Violacious Trogon, Stripe-headed Barbet, Black-cheeked Woodpecker and Black-breasted Puffbird. Overhead we had soaring Gray Hawk, Black Hawk-Eagle and Hook-billed Kite. The blue skies and intense sun brought out many butterflies, including Blue Morphos and a variety of heliconias. Several furtive flycatchers, tanagers and vireos challenged our bird-identification skills. But, a lovely Long-tailed Tyrant perched on a utility wire was very accommodating. We made a quick stop in Achiote village for a refreshingly cold soft drink and a well-deserved break. We then headed back down to the "Trogon Trail" for a short hike. Leafcutter ants seemed to dominate this trail. And many birds were heard calling throughout. Among those seen were Song Wren. But the elusive Pied Puffbird was only heard. We occasionally encountered Black and Green Poison Dart Frogs hopping across the trail. With overcast skies, we headed toward San Lorenzo Road passing the Gatun Locks again. A flock of Collared Aracari flew across the road at one of the corners. Beside Gatun Lake, we stopped for a few photos of the ships and grassland. Down San Lorenzo road, we stopped at a trailhead where a tame Chestnut-mandibled Toucan perched. A brilliant Blue Morpho followed us up the trail. And, a band of White-faced Capuchins were actively feeding in the canopy above. Although still difficult to see clearly, Western Slaty Antshrikes, Spotted Antbirds and Song Wrens came close to the trailside, likely investigating a marching army ant swarm. Returning to the trail entrance, we noticed a Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth slumbering in a treetop. Finally through Colon's smoggy rush hour traffic, we headed back to our lodge. Dinner was very filling.

Day 8 - Thursday Nov 29
We started the morning relaxed and late, with breakfast at 7:30. Sun was shinning brightly today, and hummingbirds buzzed around the feeding station. Leisurely walks around the property's short trails produced a spectacular view of the canal and the smoggy city of Colon. Swifts and vultures dotted the sky between the lowlands and us. Two very tame Turkey Vultures perched in a dead snag above our cabins. In the taller trees along the garden edge, we spotted Squirrel Cuckoo, Masked Tityra, and Chestnut-mandibled Toucan. A small feeding flock of wood-warblers, antbirds, woodcreepers and odd-thingies passed along the forest edge. A walk along the laneway and road produced several butterflies and blooms that kept Sheila's video camera constantly rolling. A Yellow-backed Oriole was singing in the distance. However, with some coaxing and song-imitations, it eventually came into view. As we returned to the lodge, a pair of Bat Falcons flew overhead. Back at the lodge, we heard the distant cries of a Black Hawk-Eagle. Once we saw the almost-stationary dot in the sky, we put our scope on it. After a satisfying lunch, the group split up for a relaxing afternoon of exploring the property. After dinner, we stepped outside to hear Crested Owl croaking at the end of a trail. In the clear sky above, we gazed at Comet Holmes, Andromeda Galaxy and Orion's Horsehead Nebula.

Day 9 - Friday Nov 30
At 5:15 in the morning, a Mottled Owl triggered Maria's dog into a barking frenzy. Tony rushes out. But, no owl could be found. Dawn arrives with both Mealy and Red-lored Parrots raucously calling. Two familiar Turkey Vultures perched on the snag with wings open, splayed for the sun - like giant gargoyles overlooking the garden. After breakfast, we waited in the garden for tanagers and hummingbirds to feast at the bird feeders. A Collared Aracari stood motionless in the sunshine of a tree in the centre of the lot. We went hiking around some of the short trails of the property. But, it was fairly quiet. Except, in the creek of the orchid trail we could hear a very persistent call coming from several locations. With determination, we finally track down a small brown & gold frog with throat expanding - Rocket Frog, a non-toxic member of the Poison-Dart frog family. And there were several spread-out around the creek's edge. We watched a few calling while others carried tadpoles on their back. One of the adults with tadpoles came to a stationary pool and pushed off the young with its feet. We spent another relaxing afternoon around the property. Maria took Sue and Tony into Colon to access internet service. Sheila and Terry stay behind to get excellent views of Golden-hooded Tanager. As the sun sets, various sized bats patrol the garden, and a domestic cat walks around the property.

Day 10 - Saturday Dec 1
6:00am, and it's another very early start with our guide waiting. Very heavy morning rains dampened our enthusiasm. So we stopped at a bus shelter for a tailgate breakfast. With fortune smiling upon us, the rain stopped, and the birds became active, flying and singing all around. We cross the Gatun Locks and head down San Lorenzo Road. Our first stop is beside a reedy wetland with much bird activity. Gray-headed Chachalacas, toucans, Crested Oropendola, Greater Ani, Streaked Saltator and Yellow-tailed Orioles were among the many birds coming into view. Further down the road, with the sun and blue sky poking through the clouds, a very wet Broad-winged hawk was sunning itself. Nearby a very soggy Hoffman's Two-toed Sloth hung dormant from a leafy branch. The sun was out in full force and birds were rejoicing. Migrant warblers, Lesser Greenlets and a Green Shrike-Vireo flitted about the roadside vegetation. We stopped at a beach overlooking the Caribbean. Behind us was a luxury resort beside dilapidated old military barracks. On the water was a diverse flotilla of large commercial vessels waiting to access the canal. We entered the parkland stopping for lunch at the ranger station. We were graciously received by the ranger, and invited to have lunch in his modest office. A Green Kingfisher perches on a rock below a nearby bridge. From here we went down to the beach where a young Peregrine Falcon perched in a leafless thorny tree. Terry finds a Whimbrel feather on the sand. Meanwhile, a threatening dark cloud brings only a sprinkle of rain. We continued up the road making a few stops. Most of what we see were familiar antbirds, warblers and motmots. A lone Malachite Butterfly adds some colour. We end our drive at Old Fort San Lorenzo overlooking the mouth of the Chagres River and the Caribbean Sea. Built at the end of the 16th century, its tumultuous history is contrast to its present peaceful setting. After several violent battles and political manipulations the fort now lay in ruins offering a beautiful vista high over the water surrounded by lush open vegetation. Pelicans, frigatebirds, terns and swallows fly past while Whimbrel and Spotted Sandpiper stroll along the coastline below. A Yellow-headed Caracara calls loudly from the grounds. We return to Gatun Locks where Sue spots a Fork-tailed Flycatcher - one of Tony's target birds. Tony chases one with his camera grabbing the attention of Canal Security. Fortunately, they quickly understood Tony's innocuous intentions. We watched as the locks delicately lowered the ships - a brilliant engineering feat. We drove toward the wooded shores of Gatun Lake where many songbirds were feeding in flowering trees. Oblivious to the nearby crocodiles, Pied-billed Grebes patrolled the shores like tiny submarines, occasionally poking their heads above the surface. In the riparian growth were numbers of Black-chested Jays, Scarlet-rumped Caciques, honeycreepers, swallows, and warblers. A Snail Kite flew over the lake and Buff-throated Wrens occasionally peered through the reeds. Further down, in the muddy furrows of the trail, we noticed two Capybaras. As night approached, we drove through crazy rush hour traffic back to the lodge.

Day 11 - Sunday Dec 2
Everyone begins the morning with another relaxed start. With the promise of blue skies in the distance, we hear the haunting pre-dawn call of a Collared Forest-Falcon. Before breakfast a stunning female Crimson-crowned Woodpecker works a few nearby trees. Immediately after breakfast, our driver arrives and we pack up. The cab stalls as it attempts to leave the steep driveway. So, we all walk up as the driver makes a second, and third attempt - finally success. During the long drive, Sue spots a White-necked Puffbird on a utility wire. A Crested Caracara also makes a brief appearance. We make a stop for a very accommodating Pearl Kite posing on a wire in the sun. We arrive at the Canopy Lodge, high in El Valle de Anton, southwest of Panama City. Here, our expert guides, Danilo Rodriguez and Tino Sanches, greet us. In the parking area, we find a wildly wonderful Walking Stick. With bird sounds everywhere, Tino and Danilo graciously lead us to the dining area where we unloaded our luggage and head immediately into the field. En-route to a highland road, we stop for a Blue-crowned Motmot. Rain begins to fall when we stop at the base of a broken track. We pull out the cold box, and distribute lunch. A little rain didn't seem to dampen our hunger. Tino spots an immaculate White Hawk on the other side of the canyon. We set up the scope and view as we munch on our sandwiches. With lunch complete, we hike up the muddy trail. Raindrops kept interfering with visibility. Regardless, we were able to view Blackburnian Warbler, Rufous Mourner, Common Bush Tanager, Silver-throated Tanager, Bay-headed Tanager and many more songbirds. A sleeping Three-toed Sloth raises its head whenever Tino whistles. Activity was slow, so we head back down only to discover a truck stuck in the hillside ditch. After several attempts to push it out, Tino gets his truck, brings it up, attaches a cable and pulls it out. Hooray! We return to the lodge and settle into our rooms. A lot of activity surrounded the bird-feeding station beside the dining area. What could be better? Here we were in the high elevations, beside a mountain stream in a quiet community, surrounded by tropical cloud forest. We had a sense this was going to be good.

Day 12 - Monday Dec 3
Breakfast started early at Canopy Lodge. 6:30 am, and the feeders were buzzing with birds and squirrels. You simply can't beat breakfast with smooth coffee and a host of colourful creatures. Among the wildlife were Variegated and Red-tailed Squirrels, Clay-coloured Robin, Tennessee Warbler, Bananaquit, Thick-billed Euphonia, Black-striped and Orange-billed Sparrows, Streaked and Buff-throated Saltators, and tanagers, tanagers, tanagers (did I mention tanagers?). Hummingbirds were in no short supply either. Raul Arias de Para, the founder of Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge, joined us for breakfast. A very social man, he was very curious about our experiences during the trip. Before heading off on our daily trek, we watched various hummingbirds sipping nectar from the vervain flowers. From the lodge's bridge over the stream, Danilo sets up his scope on a Green Kingfisher. We walk along the quiet road to the Canopy Adventure trail. Although there was much wildlife vocalizations, the critters were shy. We hiked along the trail to a large cluster of heliconia flowers, Danilo finds a quietly resting White-tipped Sicklebill. It stayed motionless on its perch for several minutes. Further along the trail, Danilo was surprised to find a female Orange-bellied Trogon. He would have expected to find this species at a higher elevation. At the top of the trail, we confronted a wall of determined army ants marching directly toward us. We figured we would just quickly hop over them. But, the troops were many and widespread over the trail. After several bounding leaps and jumps we finally find a patch clear of ants. Here we stopped, waited and listened. And, the birds came inŠ A striking Blue-crowned Motmot, a Rufous Motmot, a Tawny-capped Euphonia, a Bi-coloured Antbird and a Black-faced Antthrush all came into view. Danilo hears a Tody Motmot, and with persistence locates it with his telescope - amazing! With marching ants all around, the bird activity was spread out. But with more dogged persistence, Danilo finds a Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo - a rare forest skulker. And, if that weren't enough, he locates a second one shortly after. Having all these rare, beautiful and secretive birds around this one ant swarm is nothing less than astonishing. We return to the lodge for lunch where Raul joined us, excited to hear of our great success. We enjoyed more activity at the feeders before heading out for another exciting adventure. Only this time, it was in to the town of El Valle for some souvenir shopping. After our consumer needs were satisfied, we walked along a local road through disturbed secondary growth. It was fairly slow with intermittent light showers. But, we still managed to see some good birds. A pair of White-bellied Antbirds was fairly cooperative (relatively speaking). And, a few different types of wrens made brief appearances. A White Hawk flew low over the hillside. And, as the sun slowly disappeared behind the mountains, a Blue-crowned Motmot began feeding beside the road.

Day 13 - Tuesday Dec 4
Dawn arrives with Black-faced Antthrush and Rufous Motmot singing. Blue skies surrounded the valley. As expected, the feeding frenzy at the bird feeder demanded our attention. Besides the usual parade of characters, a Southern Beardless Tyrannulet was a different sight. After breakfast, Danilo whisks us up the mountains to an open agricultural area. We parked the truck beside a poultry farm. But, chickens weren't the only birds here. Ruddy Ground-Dove and Yellow-faced Grassquits foraged on the dirt road close to us. We hiked up another dirt road following a mix of secondary scrub and young forest. But, the hills were quiet. Clouds were coming and going. But, eventually gave way to clear blue. The hot sun brought out countless butterflies and insects. A mixed flock of Tawny-capped Tanagers, Common Bush-Tanagers and Silver-throated Tanagers moved through the canyon trees. Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrants were very vocal and often visible. Little Hermit and Black-chested Jays were a little harder to pin down. At the end of the trail, an Eastern Meadowlark sang from a fence post. As we returned down the track, we noticed a Three-toed Sloth with a baby. A light morph Short-tailed Hawk came soaring by, likely taking advantage of the thermals created by the mid-day heat. Back at our truck, drinks, peanuts and yummy M&Ms awaited us. But, these could never replace Sheila's lovely sweeties. It was back to the lodge for lunch and a rest before we head out again in the afternoon. We made the request to see the Golden Frog. So Danilo took us to a hotel where they had a captive collection. Oh well, it was better than nothing. It was now Sheila's turn to take a photo of the yellow tree - the Bignoniaceae. We then drove back up to the high elevations to the Cierro Gaital trail. Many birds were vocal, but difficult to see. We had very brief glimpses of Thrushlike Schiffornis, White-throated Spadebill and Long-billed Gnatwren. We observed several migrants and local birds including Yellow-throated Vireo, Black-and-white Warbler and Spotted Woodcreeper. We spent several minutes trying to coax an Emerald Toucanet (Blue-throated race) into view. And, Danilo delivered a telescope view by simply being relaxed, determined and persistent. As the sun approached the horizon, a dark morph Short-tailed Hawk flew low overhead. We began our drive back making occasional stops for bird activity. One roadside bush had several Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, a Mourning Warbler, and a Bran-coloured Flycatcher. Further along, we heard the call of a Barred Forest-Falcon. But, all we saw was a silhouette. Back at the lodge, we watched Long-nosed Bats hovering around the hummingbird feeders.

Day 14 - Wednesday Dec 5
Up at 6:30am for another early dawn to watch the wildlife at the feeders. Danilo was showing off his skill as he identifies several birds flying down the creek, or coming to the edges of the property. Sue spots the Rufous-crested Couquette high in the bare branches of a Eucalyptus tree. Danilo calls in the extremely shy Scaly-breasted Wren. We trek along the road toward the lower part of the Canopy Adventure area. We find an Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush in the understory. Along the trail, what was becoming a familiar sight, another procession of army ants. A Barred Forest-Falcon stands sentinel on a low perch, ready to pick off an unsuspecting antbird. But few birds were around. The forest edge revealed a flock of Scarlet-rumped Caciques and another Three-toed Sloth. We continued on the El Macho - a tall, impressive waterfalls hidden in the cloudforest. Here we found many birds including Black-chested Jay, Rufous Motmot, Bay Wren and Tawny-capped Euphonia. While returning to the lodge, we bump into a mixed flock of migrants that included Mourning Warbler and Canada Warbler. We spend the rest of the morning taking photos at the feeders. And, after lunch, we prepare for our departure with a reluctant farewell to lodge staff and guides. Our drive to Gamboa Lodge was rainy and uneventful. But once we checked in we collected for a hike around the property. Central American Agouties were abundant and highly visible. An immature Rufescent Tiger-Heron patrolled the fence line near our cabins. Migrant warblers, flycatchers and honeycreepers flitted through the flowering Mimosa Trees. A Ringed Kingfisher was conspicuous with its loud rattle. An Osprey made several fly-bys with fish in talons. Many Red-lored Parrots came into the property to roost. A lone branchless tree had three Keel-billed Toucans and a pair of Yellow-headed Caracaras. And, the final bird of the day, a Blue-crowned Motmot posed for scope views. Dinner was a delicious buffet.

Day 15 - Thursday Dec 6
It was a warm, calm morning, and everyone was hungry for breakfast. En-route to the dining area, we stop at the Mimosa Trees where we easily observed various tanagers, warblers, flycatchers, Blue Dacnis and Red-legged Honeycreepers. Hotel patrons brought a Streaked Flycatcher to our attention. After breakfast, we walk down to the Chagres River and marina. As expected, we saw many swallows, flycatchers, Common Moorhen and Wattled Jacanas. Of interest was a small American Crocodile beside a Common Moorhen and a Tri-coloured Heron, all resting on a floating plank. Several River Turtles would poke their heads out of the water around the Water Hyacinth. A Snowy Egret stayed motionless on the dock for a long time as we explored the area. We continued along the Chagres River toward the canal. Along the way, we found a cooperative Paltry Tyrannulet. Our walk was interrupted by the loud raucous call of a macaw. We ran to investigate, discovering a Great Green Macaw calling loudly then flying off. Shortly after, we see a Great Black Hawk soaring. The road traffic beside the canal was very busy this morning. And, the canal waters were busy with birds, including Royal, Sandwich and Common Terns. As we walked back along the bamboo, we see a beautiful lacy mushroom. We have a short rest before lunch. Then we follow our own agenda for the afternoon. We all meet in late afternoon before dinner. A few birds made appearances including a lovely Collared Aracari that posed low in a Cecropia Tree. We meet Sheila for our final farewell as we load her luggage into the taxi. We take a few pics and say goodbye. Shortly after the taxi drives away, Red-lored Parrots came flying in.


Day 1 - Friday Dec 7
We walk to breakfast in a foggy setting. The immature Rufescent Tiger-Heron was still probing for food along the fence line outside our cabins. Agouties were under almost every palm tree. Especially those that had Gray-headed Chachalacas dropping partially consumed palm fruits from the top. Blue-crowned Motmots were patrolling the yard behind the cabins. We checked out of our hotel, and took a taxi to the light-craft airport. Hernan Arauz, our guide to the Darien, met us at the airport lobby. But, it was still early, so we simply watched people in the crowd. We finally take off in a twin prop aircraft flying east over the Gulf of Panama. We could make out Black Vultures, a variety of tern-like birds, frigatebirds and Brown Pelicans. On one occasion, we saw a large splash, like a breaching whale. As we passed back over land, we could make out extensive mud flats, fragmented forest, tiny villages and agricultural land. It was obvious when we reached the Darien, with its uninterrupted mature forest peppered with yellow Bignoniaceae trees. A few of us saw adult King Vultures shortly after dropping altitude. The plane then came down for a smooth landing on a grassy runway in the middle of the jungle. We had arrived to Santa Cruz de Cana, our lodge for the next few days, and one of the most remote destinations in Panama. The moment we stepped off the plane, we noticed wildlife everywhere. There were so many distractions; it was difficult to check into the rooms. A Bat Falcon was calling from the highest tree behind the lodge. In the small bushes behind the dining area we found Short-billed Pigeons and a very rare Western Tanager. We managed to tear ourselves away for lunch. But, it didn't stop there. While eating, we could hear and see Red-throated Caracara and Crested Guans. Meanwhile, Macaws were calling from behind the hilltop. After lunch, we went up the "Holy Ghost" trail for our first hike. Shortly after entering the trail a pair of Red-throated Caracara became highly vocal. Hernan advised that these raptors were the jungle watchdogs, and that they would always call whenever humans invaded their space, making it impossible for people to sneak up on a jungle camp. The trail was filled with unusual birds including Checker-throated Antwren, White-flanked Antwren, Tawny-faced Gnatwren and Spot-crowned Barbet. But, it was the century-old goldmine ruins that gave the trail its eerie character - the contrast of tall thick tropical vegetation growing over tarnished moss-covered artifacts, railroad tracks and barrels. In a small clearing along the trail, we encounter an old steam furnace with tall chimney. Perched in a tall tree nearby, a beautiful White Hawk overlooks the ruins. The trail loops back to the airstrip where we see and hear macaws, parrots, woodpeckers and others. At the forest edge of the airstrip, the jungle was alive with colour and sound. We prepare for dinner as night falls. A common Paraque sings outside the cabin. And, a Crested Owl sings near the dining room. We see them both.

Day 2 - Saturday Dec 8
Dawn was surprisingly slow. But, excitement came just before breakfast with Crab-eating Foxes running around outside the cabin. After some good coffee and a simple breakfast, we were off to the airstrip for our day's hike. Birds were everywhere - tanagers, flycatchers, parrots, macawsŠ But, our attention was diverted to a large brown cat crossing the airstrip with a stealthy gate - PUMA! It disappeared within a few seconds. But, everyone got a look, and we all cheered. Hernan suspected it might be stalking a nearby band of White-lipped Peccaries. We then continue along to the Boca de Cupe trail - the lifeline of Cana to the nearest community, a two-day hike away. Our intention however, was to just spend the morning exploring its diversity. And, diverse it was. Butterflies, insects, blooms and perpetual vocalizations accompanied us throughout our muddy and humid hike through the secondary forest. Hernan brings a musty aroma to our attention. Could it have been the Puma we just saw? Or, was it a Jaguar, or smaller cat? Many excellent birds revealed themselves including Great Jacamar, Dusky-backed Jacamar, Pacific Antwren, Olivacious Piculet, Crimson-headed Woodpecker, Cinnamon Becard, Black-tailed Trogon and Gray-cheeked Nunlet. As we exited the trail back at the airstrip, Great Green Macaws were squawking from the treetops. After this spectacular morning, we were ready for a well-deserved lunch. While waiting for the chef to ring the triangle dinner bell, we studied the moths and butterflies gathered around the laundry faucet. Dozens of Green Page Moths, a colourful diurnal moth resembling a swallowtail butterfly, gathered around the damp soil. All around the edges of the lodge, Rusty-margined Flycatchers gathered in social groups, often four or five in a tree. The flowering Firecracker bushes attracted hummingbirds and tanagers. We had a rest after lunch, preparing for our next little adventure into the jungle. We meet outside the cabin when a White-tipped Cotinga lands in the mature treetops behind the creek. We then head down the short "Horse Trail" that follows the creek. Toucans and Crested Oropendolas were visible here. We return to the Holy Ghost trail with its thicker understory. We struggle to see Brownish Twistwing. Overhead, we observed White-faced Capuchins and Mantled Howler Monkeys. Along the creek, a lone White-tipped Sicklebill perched silently. When we retuned to the lodge, we managed to get the scope on the elusive Barred Puffbird as it sang its plaintive wolf-whistle melody. Back on the airstrip (a regular avian hotspot) Blue-and-Yellow Macaws, Great Green Macaws, Mealy Parrots, flycatchers, tanagers and orioles all came out for a dusk chorus. After dinner, in the dark, we got the flashlights on the Crab-eating Foxes. And, we did a bit more star gazing with Comet Holmes, Andromeda Galaxy and various constellation all in view. What a perfect way to end an exciting and adventurous day.

Day 3 - Sunday Dec 9
Much wildlife chatter greeted us at dawn - Little Tinamou, Orange-chinned Parakeets, Collared Aracari, Barred Puffbird and the raucous call of the Red-throated Caracara. Macaws and parrots patrol the trees above the creek as we enjoy breakfast. We prepare for our hike up the Pirre Mountain trail Giant cowbirds visit the lodge property as we begin our hike. Hot and sweaty, we take big steps while negotiating the steep muddy trail. Puffing and panting, we make frequent stops to listen for wildlife activity. We see a Great Jacamar en route. A very cooperative pair of Spectacled Owls guarded the trail. Unfortunately, Tony's was without camera. Have you ever seen a grown man cry? Hernan points out Tapir prints. Nearby he notices Jaguar prints and its scratches on a trunk. Close to the upper level camp, a Harlequin Toad hops across the trail. Exhausted and out of breath, we finally reach the rustic Pirre Mountain Camp. We each select single-person pup tents and settle in. Beside the camp, we enjoy a vast view looking east over the Darien. Once rested, we continue up higher along the trail into cloud forest. Almost immediately, we see Crimson-bellied Woodpecker, an uncommon Darien bird. Further along we find Black-headed Spider-Monkeys moving through the canopy. Highly visible Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrushs were hopping along the trail. Back at camp, we observe a Rufous-breasted Antthrush patrolling the trail edges. Shortly after, Hernan calls us over to see an army ant colony building up around the camp's storage area. Hundreds-of-thousands of ants and eggs concentrated in several large clusters, some hanging from the ceiling. Although this seemed alarming, the camp staff was unconcerned. Dusk was approaching, and several birds were coming into camp to roost. A noisy flock of beautiful White-headed Wrens came in. And, a tame Emerald Toucanet landed in the bush beside the lookout. In the last vestiges of light, a pair of Short-tailed Nighthawks fly by. After dinner and a short game of charades, it was time for bed. A Spectacled Owl calls in the darkness of the cloud forest.

Day 4 - Monday Dec 10
During the night, intermittent rains and the calls of Spectacled Owls interrupted our slumber. Dawn arrives with a gentle breeze and mountain mist. After breakfast, we hike up the Cloud Forest trail. Still foggy, we look and listen carefully as we climb. We pass Jaguar scat and Tapir prints along the way. In several spots, the trail appeared to be worked over by peccaries. But, the forest was fairly quiet. We did however, encounter a few feeding flocks that included birds like Pirre Bush Tanager and Green-naped Tanagers. Although it was silent, a Varied Solitaire gave us a show. One Black-headed Spider-Monkey came in. And, there were a few flurries of woodcreeper activity. It was back to camp for lunch where the army ant swarm continued to build. But, to our advantage, this was attracting the antbirds. Along the lower trail, we saw much activity following the swarm including Ocellated and Bicoloured Antbirds, Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch and Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush. An Ornate hawk-Eagle soars high overhead. After lunch, we begin our slideŠ oops. I mean hike, back down to Cana. With a hiking stick in each hand, we step slowly through the mud. A heavily moulting Black Hawk-Eagle soars high over the hillside. A troop of Yellow-green Grosbeaks chatter as they move up the trail. A brilliantly coloured pair of Red-headed Barbets come into view above the trail. At yet another army ant swarm, we spot Immaculate Antbird, and Black-throated Trogon. A little further down we see Spotted Antbird. Finally, at the airstrip, birds call from all hiding places, including Jet Antbird and Slaty Spinetail. Overhead we see Blue-headed Parrots. We head for the showers and scrape off as much mud as possible. As dusk approaches, the Pauraques start calling from the fringes of the lodge property. After dinner we do some stargazing. All the expected formations were there including Comet Holmes and Andromeda Galaxy. However, we find a mysterious celestial object that looks like a comet. But, it moves eastward as the night progresses. This was very odd. (Upon returning to Canada, Tony discovered that this object was actually the sun's reflections off of fuel jettisoned by a recently launched satellite).

Day 5 - Tuesday Dec 11
We all had a good night's rest waking up to the dawn chorus of countless birds, including the chatter of parakeets and the soft whistle of Little Tinamou. At breakfast, a Long-billed Starthroat feeds on flower nectar as several White-necked Jacobins visit the firecracker flowers. Those that still had energy went for a short hike down a narrow trail following old railway tracks. Along the way we come across an old moss-covered locomotive. Hernan smells and hears White-lipped Peccaries. When we come out to the airstrip, we search for Slaty Spinetail. We continue along the Boca de Cupe trail where we find a Long-billed Hermit lek. Throughout the trail, we encounter pockets of mixed feeding flocks including wood-warblers, antbirds, manakins and tanagers. One bare branch had a Great Jacamar and a Pied Puffbird. We return to the lodge where Terry excitedly describes his experience seeing a herd of White-lipped Peccaries along the Horse trail. Sue and Tony head down to see them still there, feeding in the tall grasses. We hear our airplane arrive, and we all bid farewell to the friendly staff. We fly over the vast Darien, then the Gulf of Panama landing in Panama City. Still dizzy from having experienced five days of world-class adventure, we reluctantly say goodbye to all our friends.

Panama 2007 Greentours - Species List (see below for Darien Extension)


Great Tinamou - Seen on Semaphore Hill, heard at dawn near Canopy Tower
Little Tinamou - Heard around Sierra Llorana
Black-bellied Whistling-Duck - Ammo Ponds, Chagres River
Muscovy Duck - Flyby near Gatun Locks
Lesser Scaup - male near Gamboa Resort
Gray-headed Chachalaca - fairly common, especially in canal areas and residential
Pied-billed Grebe - Gatun Lake and Chagres River
Brown Pelican - Coastal areas and canal
Neotropic Cormorant - Chagres River and canal
Anhinga - Chagres River and ponds
Magnificent Frigatebird - Coastal areas and canal
Rufescent Tiger-Heron - adult at Ammo Ponds, immature at Gamboa Resort
Cocoi Heron - seen flying while driving on bridge near Gatun Lake
Great Egret - Chagres River and canal
Snowy Egret - Chagres River and canal
Little Blue Heron - Chagres River, ponds and canal
Tricoloured Heron - Chagres River
Cattle Egret - common, especially open & disturbed areas
Green Heron - ponds
Striated Heron - Summit Ponds
Capped Heron - Summit Garden and ponds
Boat-billed Heron - Summit Ponds
Black Vulture - abundant, seen every day overhead
Turkey Vulture - abundant, seen every day overhead
King Vulture - a few soaring, seen from Canopy Tower
Osprey - rivers and canal area
Gray-headed Kite - one seen flying away from Semaphore Hill
Hook-billed Kite - soaring over Achiote Road
Pearl Kite - on utility wire beside Pan American Hwy
Snail Kite - one seen over Gatun Lake
Double-toothed Kite - Pipeline Road and Sierra Llorona
Crane Hawk - pair at Summit Garden
Semiplumbious Hawk - Pipeline Road and Canopy Tower
White Hawk - El Valle
Gray Hawk - Achiote Road and Gatun Locks area
Common Black Hawk - canal area
Great Black Hawk - high over Gamboa Resort
Savannah Hawk - Gatun Locks
Roadside Hawk - El Valle
Broad-winged Hawk - fairly common in variety of woodlands
Short-tailed Hawk - Canopy Tower, Sierra Llorona, El Valle
Zone-tailed Hawk - Canopy Tower
Black Hawk-Eagle - calling and soaring from Pipeline Road, Sierra Llorona and El Valle
Barred Forest-Falcon - El Valle, Canopy Adventure trail
Slaty-backed Forest-Falcon - heard at dawn from Canopy Tower
Collared Forest-Falcon - heard at dawn from Canopy Tower and Sierra Llorona
Crested Caracara - seen briefly flying with vultures away from Hwy 2
Yellow-headed Caracara - very common in lowlands, especially canal area
American Kestrel - Gatun Locks
Bat Falcon - Ammo Ponds, Sierra Llorona
Peregrine Falcon - over canal and on Caribbean coast
White-throated Crake - seen at Ammo Ponds, heard only in other wetlands
Purple Gallinule - Ammo Ponds and Gamboa Resort
Common Moorhen - Chagres River
American Coot - Gamboa Resort
Southern Lapwing - Gatun Locks and El Valle
Wattled Jacana - canal area around Gamboa
Spotted Sandpiper - various shorelines
Whimbrel - Caribbean coast
Laughing Gull - canal area
Royal Tern - various shorelines and canal area
Sandwich Tern - various shorelines and canal area
Common Tern - one seen with other terns on canal
Rock Pigeon - urban and suburban lowlands
Pale-vented Pigeon - fairly common around canal area
Scaled Pigeon - Canopy Tower
Short-billed Pigeon - Canopy Tower (heard only) and Gatun Lake
Ruddy Ground-Dove - disturbed or open areas
White-tipped Dove - forest edges
Gray-chested Dove - Semaphore Road, Achiote Road
Great Green Macaw - Gamboa Resort (escapee?)
Orange-chinned Parakeet - abundant, usually in pairs or large flocks
Brown-hooded Parrot - heard flying over Pipeline and Achiote Roads
Blue-headed Parrot - canal area, deeper wingbeats than larger amazons
Red-lored Amazon - fairly common throughout
Mealy Amazon - Canopy Tower and Sierra Llorona
Squirrel Cuckoo - common but shy
Striped Cuckoo - heard only in El Valle
Rufous-vented Ground-Cuckoo - 2 at ant swarm along Canopy Adventure trail (amazing)
Greater Ani - Summit Ponds and wetland along San Lorenzo Road
Smooth-billed Ani - grasslands and grassy forest edge
Crested Owl - heard only at Sierra Llorona
Spectacled Owl - pair along Old Gamboa Road
Mottled Owl - heard only at Sierra Llorona
Great Potoo - one perched on snag during night prowl from Canopy Tower
Common Potoo - one flew over truck during night prowl from Canopy Tower
White-collared Swift - many migrating along Caribbean slope and coast
Chimney Swift - common migrant during first part of trip
Short-tailed Swift - intermittently flying overhead with other swifts
Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift - uncommon during first part of trip
Rufous-breasted Hermit - one spotted by Jose (leader only)
Band-tailed Barbthroat - Old Gamboa Road
Green Hermit - Canopy Lodge and El Valle
Long-billed Hermit - fairly common in lower and middle elevations
Stripe-throated Hermit. - seen intermittently throughout (elusive)
White-tipped Sicklebill - Canopy Adventure trail
White-necked Jacobin - fairly common, especially lower and middle elevations
Violet-headed Hummingbird - Canopy Lodge
Rufous-crested Coquette - one at Canopy Lodge
Violet-crowned Woodnymph - fairly common at feeders except Canopy Tower
Violet-bellied Hummingbird - mainly at Canopy Tower and surrounding area
Blue-chested Hummingbird - fairly common at feeders except highlands
Snowy-bellied Hummingbird - Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge
Rufous-tailed Hummingbird - fairly common in a variety of habitats
White-vented Plumeleteer - Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge
Bronze-tailed Plumeleteer - uncommon at Canopy Lodge
Purple-crowned Fairy - Old Gamboa Road and El Valle
White-tailed Trogon - Achiote and San Lorenzo Roads
Violaceous Trogon - Canopy Tower area and Achiote Road
Orange-bellied Trogon - a female along Canopy Adventure trail
Slaty-tailed Trogon - Canopy Tower lower trails and Sierra Llorona
Tody Motmot - Canopy Adventure trail
Blue-crowned Motmot - uncommon, but seen regularly in a variety of habitats
Rufous Motmot - fairly common in a variety of habitats
Broad-billed Motmot - Canopy Tower lower trails and San Lorenzo road
Ringed Kingfisher - Chagres River
Amazon Kingfisher - Summit Ponds
Green Kingfisher - ponds, streams and creeks
White-necked Puffbird - one spotted by Sue on utility wire along Hwy 2
Black-breasted Puffbird - Canopy Tower and Achiote Road
Pied Puffbird - heard several times along Achiote Road
White-whiskered Puffbird - Canopy Tower area
Great Jacamar - Pipeline Road
Spot-crowned Barbet - Achiote Road
Emerald Toucanet (Blue-throated) - Cierro Gaital trail above El Valle
Collared Aracari - very common throughout
Keel-billed Toucan - fairly common throughout
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan - fairly common except highlands
Black-cheeked Woodpecker - Summit Garden and Achiote Road
Red-crowned Woodpecker - fairly common in a variety of habitats
Cinnamon Woodpecker - Canopy Tower area
Lineated Woodpecker - uncommon in a variety of habitats
Crimson-crested Woodpecker - one female on Sierra Llorona property
Plain Xenops - only a few individuals, usually in mixed flocks
Scaly-throated Leaftosser - heard only at Semaphore Hill
Plain-brown Woodcreeper - good views near Canopy Tower, often around ant swarms
Wedge-billed Woodcreeper - El Valle
Northern Barred Woodcreeper - Plantation Trail with ant swarm
Cocoa Woodcreeper - fairly common in woodlands throughout
Black-striped Woodcreeper - Pipeline Road
Spotted Woodcreeper - El Valle, near Canopy Lodge
Streak-headed Woodcreeper - Summit Gardens
Fasciated Antshrike - Plantation trail, Sierra Llorona, Canopy Adventure Trail
Barred Antshrike - pairs seen at Ammo Ponds and El Valle
Western Slaty Antshrike - common in woodlands of lower elevations
Russet Antshrike - El Valle
Plaint Antvireo - high elevations of El Valle
Checker-throated Antwren - Canopy Tower area
White-flanked Antwren - Pipeline Road and Sierra Llorona
Dot-winged Antwren - usually with other antbirds, and ant swarm
Dusky Antbird - One seen on Semaphore Hill
White-bellied Antwren - a pair in El Valle
Chestnut-backed Antbird - seen at ant swarms, sometimes only heard
Spotted Antbird - fairly common, always with other antbirds
Bicoloured Antbird - fairly common and vocal, especially in Canopy Tower area
Ocellated Antbird - Plantation trail
Black-faced Antthrush - seen on Old Gamboa Road - heard only elsewhere (common)
Brown-capped Tyrannulet - often heard in the Canopy tower area, never seen
Southern Beardless Tyrannulet - Canopy Lodge
Yellow-crowned Tyrannulet - heard only Old Gamboa Road
Forest Elaenia - San Lorenzo Road
Lesser Elaenia - El Valle
Olive-striped Flycatcher - Canopy Adventure trail
Paltry Tyrannulet - lowlands
Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant - Pipeline Road
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant - El Valle higher elevations
Southern Bentbill - lowlands, especially canal area
Common Tody-Flycatcher - canal area
Black-headed Tody-Flycatcher - heard only, Canopy Tower
Eye-ringed Flatbill - old nest, Canopy Adventure trail
Olivaceous Flatbill - San Lorenzo Road
Yellow-olive Flycatcher - El Valle
Yellow-margined Flycatcher - Pipeline Road and Sierra Llorona
White-throated Spadebill - Cierro Gaital trail
Golden-crowned Spadebill - Plantation trail
Royal Flycatcher - Old Gamboa Road
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher - Pipeline Road
Bran-coloured Flycatcher - El Valle (at dusk)
Common Tufted Flycatcher - El Valle higher elevations
Olive-sided Flycatcher - El Valle
Eastern Wood-Pewee - fairly common throughout
Acadian Flycatcher - Canopy Adventure trail
Long-tailed Tyrant - Achiote Road
Bright-rumped Attila - frequently heard throughout, seen well in a few spots
Rufous Mourner - El Valle
Dusky-capped Flycatcher - Pipeline Road
Panama Flycatcher - heard only in Gamboa village
Great-crested Flycatcher - scattered sightings throughout, often heard
Lesser Kiskadee - wetland edges in Gamboa area
Great Kiskadee - fairly common, especially Soberania Park and Canopy Tower area
Boat-billed Flycatcher - scattered sightings throughout, often heard
Rusty-margined Flycatcher - Gamboa and Canopy Tower areas
Social Flycatcher - fairly common in a variety of open habitats
Gray-capped Flycatcher - Achiote road
Streaked Flycatcher - Gamboa Resort
Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher - Achiote Road
Tropical Kingbird - common in open and semi open habitats
Fork-tailed Flycatcher - Gatun Locks
Thrush-like Schiffornis - Highlands of El Valle
Speckled Mourner - heard only, Pipeline Road
Masked Tityra - uncommon, but seen and heard in a variety of locations
Black-crowned Tityra - Pipeline Road
Blue Cotinga - Canopy Tower area
Purple-throated Fruitcrow - Pipeline road and entrance to Plantation trail
Golden-collared Manakin - Old Gamboa road and Achiote road
White-ruffed Manakin - heard only in high elevations of El Valle
Blue-crowned Manakin - Canopy Tower area
Red-capped Manakin - Canopy Tower, Soberania Park and Sierra Llorona
Yellow-throated Vireo - Semaphore Hill and El Valle
Red-eyed Vireo - Canopy Tower
Lesser Greenlet - Pipeline Road, Achiote Road, Sierra Llorona
Green Shrike-Vireo - often heard, seen on Pipeline Road and Achiote Road
Black-chested Jay - oddly elusive, seen well in El Valle and Gatun Lake area
Gray-breasted Martin - highly visible in flight, especially urbanized areas
Mangrove Swallow - wetlands throughout
Blue-and-white Swallow - El Valle
White-thighed Swallow - Canopy Lodge
Northern Rough-winged Swallow - El Valle and Gamboa Resort
Southern Rough-winged Swallow - fairly common in open lowland areas
Cliff Swallow - Gatun Lake
Cave Swallow - one bird over Ammo Ponds, with other swallows
Barn Swallow - abundant in open areas throughout
White-headed Wren - heard only, Trogon trail off Achiote Road
Black-bellied Wren - heard only, Old Gamboa Road
Bay Wren - elusive, seen along Achiote road and Canopy Adventure trail
Rufous-breasted Wren - seen in El Valle, heard only in Canopy Tower area
Rufous-and-White Wren - Canopy Adventure trail
Buff-breasted Wren - Plantation trail and San Lorenzo road
Plain Wren - Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge areas
Southern House Wren - common and visible in urbanized areas
White-breasted Wood-Wren - common in lower and middle elevations, very vocal
Gray-breasted Woodwren - El Valle high elevations
Scaly-breasted Wren - frequently heard in El Valle, finally seen at Canopy Lodge
Song Wren - Semaphore Hill and San Lorenzo road
Tawny-faced Gnatwren - heard only, Cierro Gaital
Long-billed Gnatwren - heard in Canopy Tower area, seen in El Valle
Tropical Gnatcatcher - Soberania Park, Sierra Llorona, San Lorenzo road
Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush - Canopy Adventure trail
Swainson¹s Thrush - Semaphore Hill and El Valle
Clay-coloured Robin - common in a variety of habitats
Tropical Mockingbird - urbanized areas, especially Gamboa area
Golden-winged Warbler - a few places, always with other neo-tropical migrants
Tennessee Warbler - common in El Valle
Yellow Warbler - Canopy Tower and Canopy Lodge areas
Chestnut-sided Warbler - common in woodlands
Blackburnian Warbler - a few in highlands of El Valle
Bay-breasted Warbler - Canopy Tower and Soberania Park
Black-and-white Warbler - seen intermittently with mixed flocks
American Redstart - El Valle
Prothonotary Warbler - seen intermittently near wetlands or with mixed flocks
Northern Waterthrush - lowlands, often near water
Louisiana Waterthrush - creek in El Valle
Mourning Warbler - El Valle, with mixed flocks
Canada Warbler - one in El Valle, with mixed flock
Rufous-capped Warbler - El Valle
Bananaquit - Achiote Road and Canopy Lodge
Common Bush-Tanager - El Valle
Rosy Thrush-Tanager - heard only, scrub areas, Old Gamboa Road and Canopy Lodge
Dusky-faced Tanager - El Valle
Gray-headed Tanager - Canopy Tower area, usually around ant swarms
White-shouldered Tanager - intermittent sightings in a variety of locations
Tawny-crested Tanager - El Valle
White-lined Tanager - El Valle
Red-crowned Ant-Tanager - El Valle
Red-throated Ant-Tanager - Canopy Tower area
Hepatic Tanager - Canopy Lodge
Summer Tanager - common in a variety of locations
Scarlet Tanager - one at Canopy Tower
Crimson-backed Tanager - common in scrub and forest edge habitats
Flame-rumped Tanager - Achiote Road and El Valle
Blue-gray Tanager - abundant in disturbed areas
Palm Tanager - abundant in a variety of habitats
Plain-coloured Tanager - uncommon, usually in flocks, in a variety of locations
Silver-throated Tanager - El Valle
Bay-headed Tanager - one seen in high elevations of El Valle
Golden-hooded Tanager - uncommon in forest edge, usually around lodges
Blue Dacnis - with mixed flocks of Tanagers, at flowering trees and at feeders
Green Honeycreeper - usually in pairs in flowering trees
Red-legged Honeycreeper - with mixed flocks, at flowering trees and at feeders
Blue-black Grassquit - grassy areas of lowlands
Variable Seedeater - grassy disturbed areas throughout
Yellow-faced Grassquit - grassy disturbed areas throughout
Thick-billed Seedfinch - San Lorenzo Road
Saffron Finch - urban ponds in Colon
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch - Canopy Lodge
Orange-billed Sparrow - Canopy Lodge
Black-striped Sparrow - a few sightings, mainly Canopy Lodge feeders
Streaked Saltator - San Lorenzo road and Canopy Lodge
Buff-throated Saltator - seen in a variety of wooded habitats
Black-headed Saltator - heard only in El Valle
Slate-coloured Grosbeak - seen in El Valle, heard only in Canopy Tower area
Rose-breasted Grosbeak - a flock in El Valle
Blue-black Grosbeak - Canopy Adventure trail
Red-breasted Blackbird - Gatun Locks grasslands
Eastern Meadowlark - agricultural land in high elevation of El Valle
Great-tailed Grackle - abundant in urbanized areas
Yellow-backed Oriole - seen and heard in Sierra Llorona, and Canopy Tower area
Yellow-tailed Oriole - highly visible around wetland edges
Baltimore Oriole - migrant seen in a variety of habitats
Yellow-billed Cacique - Canopy Adventure trail
Scarlet-rumped Cacique - very common in a variety of habitats
Yellow-rumped Cacique - Canopy Tower area
Crested Oropendola - San Lorenzo Road and Sierra Llorona
Chestnut-headed Oropendola - mainly forested hills
Yellow-crowned Euphonia - Old Gamboa Road and Canopy Tower
Thick-billed Euphonia - Sierra Llorona and El Valle
Fulvous-vented Euphonia - Soberania Park, canal area, Sierra Llorona
Tawny-capped Euphonia - El Valle


Common Opposum - one crossing laneway during night drive from Canopy Tower
Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth - fairly common around canal areas
Hoffman¹s Two-toed Sloth - several sightings, less common than 3-toed
White-faced Capuchin - trail off Fort San Lorenzo Road
Mantled Howler Monkey - fairly common, often heard
Geoffroy¹s Tamarin - Old Gamboa Road/trail
Red-tailed Squirrel - the most common and visible mammal
Variegated Squirrel - Summit Gardens and Canopy Lodge feeders (pale Panama race)
Capybara - two along shores of Gatun Lake
Central American Agouti - common near canal area
Brazilian Rabbit - Semaphore Hill at night
White-nosed Coati - common near canal area and Canopy Tower
Long-nosed Bat - many coming to hummingbird feeders at Canopy Lodge


Red-headed Firetip Skipper - pair mating along Old Gamboa Road
Tropical Checkered Skipper - Old Gamboa Road
Blue Morpho - fairly common throughout
Owl Butterfly - regular, but much less common than morpho
Banded Peacock - fairly common throughout
Malachite - one along San Lorenzo Road
Postman Longwing - fairly common throughout
Yellow-patch Longwing - a few along Old Gamboa road
Julia - Sierra Llorona, Achiote Road and San Lorenzo Road
Band-celled Sister - various places in Sobarania Park


Cane Toad - Heard around Canopy Tower in evenings
Litter Toad - Pipeline Road
South American Common Toad - Entrance to Plantation Trail
Rocket Frog - Sierra Llorona creek
Black and Green Poison Dart Frog - Achiote road trails
Tungara Frog - heard in several locations near canal area


American Crocodile - ponds, shorelines and rivers throughout
Spectacled Camen - Gamboa ponds
House Gecko - around buildings, fairly common
Yellow-headed Gecko - Canopy Tower and Sierra Llorona
Common Anole - Sierra Llorona
Green Tree Anole - Sierra Llorona (the large green anole we saw on the ground)
Central American Whiptail - Canopy Tower and Sierra Llorona
Green Iguana - typically in trees around canal area
River Turtle - calm areas of Chagres River


Helicopter Damselfly - Pipeline Road and Old Gamboa Road
Army Ants - frequently encountered along several trails and Semaphore Hill
Leaf-cutter Ants - species unkown , abundant throughout

Darien Extension 2007 Greentours - Species List


Great Tinamou - heard only around lodge
Little Tinamou - heard only at dawn around lodge
Brown Pelican - during flight to/from Panama City
Great Egret - during return flight, landing in Panama City
Black Vulture - during flight to/from Panama City
Turkey Vulture - overhead around Cana Lodge
King Vulture - during flight into Cana
White Hawk - Holy Ghost trail
Broad-winged Hawk - overhead around Cana Lodge
Black Hawk-Eagle - Pirre Mountain trail
Ornate Hawk-Eagle - Pirre Mountain Camp
Red-throated Caracara - around Cana Lodge
Bat Falcon - around Cana Lodge
Crested Guan - around Cana Lodge
Great Curassow - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Short-billed Pigeon - around Cana Lodge
Ruddy Pigeon - heard only - Pierre Mountain Camp
Dusky Pigeon - Cloud Forest trail
White-tipped Dove - around Cana Lodge
Gray-chested Dove - Holy Ghost trail
Blue-and-yellow Macaw - around Cana Lodge
Great Green Macaw - around Cana Lodge
Chestnut-fronted Macaw - around Cana Lodge
Orange -chinned Parakeet - around Cana Lodge and trails
Brown-hooded Parrot - around airstrip
Blue-headed Parrot - around Cana Lodge
Mealy Amazon - around Cana Lodge
Squirrel Cuckoo - around Cana Lodge and trails
Little Cuckoo - behind dining area and along Boca de Cupe trail
Smooth-billed Ani - near airstrip
Crested Owl - at night near dining area
Spectacled Owl - Pirre Mountain trail and camp
Short-tailed Nighthawk - at dusk from lookout at Pirre Mountain camp
Pauraque - at dusk, around Cana Lodge
White-collared Swift - around Cana Lodge
Band-rumped Swift - over airstrip
Band-tailed Barbthroat - one rescued from Terry¹s room
Green Hermit - Pirre Mountain trail
Long-billed Hermit - Boca de Cupe trail
Little Hermit - around Cana Lodge and Pirre Mountain trail
White-tipped Sicklebill - Holy Ghost trail
White-necked Jacobin - around Cana Lodge
Green-crowned Woodnymph - around Cana Lodge
Violet-bellied Hummingbird - one seen by leader around Cana Lodge
Rufous-cheeked Hummingbird - Cloud forest trail near camp
Blue-chested Hummingbird - around Cana Lodge
Rufous-tailed hummingbird - around Cana Lodge and trails
White-vented Plumeleteer - Holy Ghost trail
Greenish Puffleg - Pirre Mountain camp and Cloud Forest trail
Purple-crowned Fairy - one around Cana Lodge
Long-billed Starthroat - feeding around flowers beside dining area
Violaceous Trogon - trails near Cana lodge
Collared Trogon - Pirre Mountain trail
Black-throated Trogon - Pirre Mountain trail
Black-tailed Trogon - Boca de Cupe trail
Tody Motmot - leader only, area unknown
Broad-billed Motmot - heard only, Holy Ghost trail
Barred Puffbird - around Cana Lodge
Pied Puffbird - Boca de Cupe trail
White-whiskered Puffbird - trails near Cana Lodge
Gray-cheeked Nunlet - Boca de Cupe trail
Dusky-backed Jacamar - Boca de Cupe trail and Pirre Mountain trail
Great Jacamar - Boca de Cupe trail and Pirre Mountain trail
Spot-crowned Barbet - trails near Cana Lodge
Red-headed Barbet - Pirre Mountain trail
Emerald Toucanet - Pirre Mountain camp
Collared Aracari - around Cana Lodge and trails
Yellow-eared Toucanet - over creek, behind cabins at Cana Lodge
Keel-billed Toucan - around Cana Lodge and trails
Chestnut-mandibled Toucan - around Cana Lodge and trails
Choco Toucan - heard only along Boca de Cupe trail
Olivaceous Piculet - Boca de Cupe trail
Black-cheeked Woodpecker - around Cana Lodge and trails
Red-rumped Woodpecker - at forest edge near airstrip
Stripe-cheeked Woodpecker - Pirre Mountain trail
Cinnamon Woodpecker - Boca de Cupe trail
Lineated Woodpecker - around Cana Lodge and airstrip
Crimson-bellied Woodpecker - Cloud Forest trail near camp
Crimson-crested Woodpecker - around Cana Lodge and airstrip
Slaty Spinetail - in scrub around edge of airstrip
Lineated Foliage-gleaner - Pirre Mountain trail
Slaty-winged Foliage-gleaner - Pirre Mountain trail and Holy ghost trail
Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner - heard only along trails
Ruddy Foliage-gleaner - heard only, Pirre mountain trail
Plain Xenops - Boca de Cupe trail
Plain-brown Woodcreeper - along most trails
Northern Barred Woodcreeper - Pirre mountain Trail and Boca de Cupe trail
Cocoa Woodcreeper - trails near Cana Lodge
Black-striped Woodcreeper - trails near Cana Lodge
Spotted Woodcreeper - Pirre Mountain trail
Streak-headed Woodcreeper - trails near Cana Lodge
Red-billed Sythebill - Boca de Cupe trail
Fasciated Antshrike - in scrub around edge of airstrip
Great Antshrike - trails around Cana Lodge
Western Slaty Antshrike - Holy Ghost trail
Russet Antshrike - Pirre Mountain trail and Boca de Cupe trail
Plain Antvireo - most trails
Pygmy Antwren - Boca de Cupe trail
Pacific Antwren - Boca de Cupe trail
Checker-throated Antwren - elusive, on most trails
White-flanked Antwren - Holy Ghost trail
Slaty Antwren - Boca de Cupe trail
Rufous-winged Antwren - most trails, usually only heard
Dusky Antwren - Boca de Cupe trail
Jet Antbird - in scrub around edge of airstrip
Chestnut-backed Antbird - Horse trail
Immaculate Antbird - Pirre Mountain trail
Spotted Antbird - several trails, usually with other antbirds
Bicoloured Antbird - Pirre Mountain trail near camp
Ocellated Antbird - Pirre Mountain trail near camp
Black-faced Antthrush - heard only near Cana Lodge
Rufous-breasted Antthrush - Pirre Mountain trail beside camp
Scaled Antpitta - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Thicket Antpitta - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Choco Tapaculo - heard only, Cloud Forest trail
Brown-capped Tyrannulet - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Forest Elaenia - one near Cana Lodge
Yellow-bellied Elaenia - around Cana Lodge
Slaty-capped Flycatcher - Holy Ghost trail
Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant - Pirre Mountain camp and surrounding trails
Northern Bentbill - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Brownish Twistwing - Holy Ghost trail
Eye-ringed Flatbill - Holy Ghost trail
Yellow-olive Flycatcher - heard only, Pirre Mountain trail
Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher - Boca de Cupe trail
Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher - trails around Cana Lodge
Black-tailed Flycatcher - Boca de Cupe trail
Long-tailed Tyrant - Boca de Cupe trail
Rufous Mourner - Boca de Cupe trail
Dusky-capped Flycatcher - Boca de Cupe trail
Great-crested Flycatcher - heard only, various trails
Rusty-margined Flycatcher - around Cana Lodge
Gray-capped Flycatcher - trails around Cana Lodge
Streaked Flycatcher - near Cana Lodge
Tropical Kingbird - around Cana Lodge and open areas along trails
Cinnamon Becard - Boca de Cupe trail
Masked Tityra - around Cana Lodge
Rufous Piha - Pirre Mountain trail
Black-tipped Cotinga - one seen in trees over creek behind cabins
Purple-throated Fruitcrow - Boca de Cupe trail and airstrip
Thrush-like Schiffornis - heard only along trails near Cana Lodge
Golden-collared Manakin - trails near Cana Lodge
White-ruffed Manakin - around Cana Lodge and trails
Blue-crowned Manakin - around Cana Lodge and Boca de Cupe trail
Golden-headed Manakin - around Cana Lodge
White-thighed Swallow - over airstrip
Southern Rough-winged Swallow - over airstrip
Black-chested Jay - trails around Cana Lodge
White-headed Wren - Boca de  Cupe trail and Pirre Mountain camp
Sooty-headed Wren - heard only, Pirre Mountain trail
Bay Wren - Boca de Cupe trail
Ochraceous Wren - Pirre Mountain camp
White-breasted Wood-Wren - trails around Cana Lodge
Gray-breasted Wood-Wren - Pirre Mountain trail and Cloud Forest trail
Scaly-breasted Wren - heard only, Pirre Mountain trail
Tawny-faced Gnatwren - Holy Ghost trail
Long-billed Gnatwren - heard only, Boca de Cupe trail
Varied Solitaire - Cloud Forest trail
Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush - Pirre Mountain camp and surrounding trails
White-throated Thrush - Pirre Mountain trail
Yellow-throated Vireo - Pirre Mountain trail
Lesser Greenlet - Boca de Cupe trail
Yellow-browed Shrike-Vireo - heard only, Pirre Mountain trail
Tennessee Warbler - in mixed flocks along trails
Tropical Parula - Pirre Mountain trail
Chestnut-sided Warbler - Pirre Mountain trail
Blackburnian Warbler - Pirre Mountain trail
Bay-breasted Warbler - in mixed flocks along trails
Black-and-white Warbler - along trails near Cana Lodge
Mourning Warbler - Boca de Cupe trail
Slate-throated Redstart - Pirre Mountain trail
Bananaquit - Boca de Cupe trail
Gray-and-Gold Tanager - Pirre Mountain camp and trail
Speckled Tanager - Cloud Forest trail and Pirre Mountain trail
Bay-headed Tanager - Cloud Forest trail
Golden-hooded Tanager - trails around Cana Lodge and Pirre Mountain trail
Green-naped Tanager - Cloud Forest trail
Green Honeycreeper - around Cana Lodge
Thick-billed Euphonia - around Cana Lodge
Orange-bellied Euphonia - Cloud Forest trail
Blue-gray Tanager - around Cana Lodge
Palm Tanager - around Cana Lodge
Lemon-spectacled Tanager - Holy Ghost trail and Pirre Mountain trail
Scarlet-browed Tanager - Holy Ghost trail
White-shouldered Tanager - Boca de Cupe trail
Hepatic Tanager - Pirre Mountain trail and near airstrip
Summer Tanager - all trails and around Cana Lodge
Western Tanager - near dining area of Cana Lodge - first Darien record
Crimson-backed Tanager - all trails and around Cana Lodge
Flame-rumped Tanager - all trails and around Cana Lodge
Dusky-faced Tanager - Holy Ghost trail
Pirre Bush-Tanager - Cloud Forest trail
Yellow-backed Tanager - Boca de Cupe trail
Black-and-yellow Tanager - Pirre Mountain trail
Buff-throated Saltator - trails around Cana Lodge
Yellow-green Grosbeak - Pirre Mountain trail
Blue-black Grosbeak - heard only, near airstrip
Chestnut-capped Brush-Finch - Pirre Mountain camp and surrounding area
Variable Seedeater - at edges of all trails and Cana Lodge
Giant Cowbird - Cana Lodge and airstrip
Yellow-tailed Oriole - around Cana Lodge
Yellow-rumped Cacique - Boca de Cupe trail
Crested Oropendola - Horse trail and Boca de Cupe trail
Chestnut-headed Oropendola - Horse trail


Brown-throated Three-toed Sloth - Gamboa Rainforest Resort
White-faced Capuchin - Boca de Cupa Trail
Mantled Howler Monkey - various trails near Cana Lodge & camp
Black-headed Spider Monkey - troop along Pirre Mountain Trail
Geoffroy¹s Tamarin - Gamboa Rainforest Resort
Red-tailed Squirrel - around Cana Lodge
Central American Agouti - Gamboa Rainforest Resort
Puma - seen crossing airstrip at Cana Lodge
Jaguar - scat, tracks and scent along Pirre Mountain Trail
Baird¹s Tapir - tracks along Pirre Mountain Trail
Collared Peccary - tracks along cloud forest Trail
White-lipped Peccary - about 30 - 35 along Horse Trail beside Cana Lodge


Harlequin Toad - Cloud Forest Trail


Clearwing Butterfly (Cihaerias Pireta) - Cloud Forest Trail
Eighty-eight Butterfly (Diaethria sp.) - a few at lodge and camp


Green Page Moth - diurnal, fairly common on trails and around Cana Lodge
Army Ants (Eciton Burchelli) - Pirre Mountain Camp and trails
Leaf-cutter Ants - species unkown , abundant throughout


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